Sew trying hard

Week 4 at #MoodU's #IntermediateSewingClass and my #robecoatproject is taking shape thanks to @benjamin_mach and his team of #fabAssistants... Always excited to #learnsomethingnew... #sewingclasses #learningtosew #needleandthread #crafting #moodfabrics

Pardon the pun in the title but I am in the midst of a sewing crisis with my robe/coat project hanging in limbo.   I actually spent a fair amount of Saturday evening on to Sunday morning trying so desperately to make this pattern work — I ruined two sets of one face of the robe but I am NOT giving up.

The project.  We were asked to choose between a skirt, a men’s shirt, a wrap dress and a robe which can be tailor fit into a coat for women.  I chose the robe precisely because I had been wanting to make my own coat for ages but just don’t know the first thing about sewing one.  Part of our enrollment for Mood Design Fabric’s MoodU Intermediate Sewing Class was the pattern for the project we chose.

After taking basic measurements, we determined the correct size according to the patterns which came in a range.  On the second week, we cut the cloth (which I missed) and then on the third and fourth week we started sewing.

Materials.  While I can sometimes take an inordinate amount of time trying to figure out my fabric and the color, this time around, it wasn’t quite as hard being the pink lover that I am.  I had decided early on I would do a heavier fabric because I wanted it to be thick enough to keep me warm, but I couldn’t do anything stretchy as that would be a challenge to sew.  Sometimes having too many choices can be such a hassle because it makes one even more fickle-minded about which one to take.  Fortunately, I opted to go with my other fabric store where there was quite a pool to choose from, but at a reasonably smaller scale.  So pink wool is what I went for.

Cutting the pattern.  This was my first time to work a pattern with a size range, so I was made to do one basic measurement, which was around my bust.  In hindsight, I realize now I should have taken more precise measurements.  I am seriously considering getting the pattern in a smaller size than the one I got, because the shoulders would be too droopy.  On the other hand, this size was comfortable as far as the hip was concerned my pear shape.  I went for the smallest size in the range, so to downsize further would mean getting the next smaller pattern.

We were told to find the correct line pattern for the size and cut away, so cut away I did.

Cutting the fabric.  Very important: Follow the direction of the grain line on the pattern when cutting based on one.

One, I had to overcome my fear of “ruining” the project by cutting it wrong. Two, you need a flat surface (i.e. Cutting table) to lay out the fabric with the pattern on it.  Three, as long as you follow the grain line, you need not follow the cutting diagram (how the pieces should be pinned to the fabric) to the letter.  Four, if you must shorten the project as against the actual length on the pattern, fold the pattern do not cut it.  You never know if you will need the pattern at the longer length.

I am most grateful for the help of Ms. Joyce, the more senior assistant in the class — because she helped me to arrange the pattern pieces to maximize the fabric saved.  She also helped me determine by how much I should shorten the pattern and advised me to fold and pin the excess and cut around it, instead of cutting the pattern to size.  (Just in case I will need the full-size pattern for another project later.)

After pinning the pattern to the fabric, I cut the various pieces required for the project piece I wanted to work on.

Strengthening, reinforcing, edge stitching and all those other nuances of sewing garments.  The advantage of being in a class is that you get the benefit of an actual demonstration beyond the instructions that come with the pattern.  Besides actual demos that are projected onto two large screens to the right and left of the classroom, the assistants are available to give advice and help novice sewers like myself to get things right.  Despite the diagrams and instructions on the pattern guide, there is still a lot that needs figuring out which can be challenging for beginners like me.  Also, the diagrams are a little small and sometimes difficult to discern.

So there are certain “tricks” to preparing the fabric for stitching together, like reinforcing certain portions to ensure that they don’t stretch under the weight of being sewn to another piece.  After trying to stitch the neckline and the front and back of the coat no less than half a dozen times, I finally decided I would do better to baste the pieces by hand which proved helpful.  I am just not quite there yet with sewing pinned pieces together — perhaps in time.

Piecing the project together, as instructed.  This is where I valued the instructions given in the class by people who actually have the  sewing experience to back it up.  There are many ways to work around stumbling blocks which I just wouldn’t be able to do without actual personal instructions or guidance.

I am always nervous after I start putting pressure on the pedal and the machine starts to move.  Like I’ve told my friend, Willa, my seam ripper is now my best friend.  It’s a joke we share with much gusto, along with our newfound passion for learning to see.

So the project isn’t quite finished yet.  I have unstitched the lining and will hopefully get to work on it before the last class.  My coat is beginning to take shape, although there is a lot more tweaking left to be done.  I’m getting there, like I always say…

Back to Sewing School

A few months ago, I enrolled in the Beginner Sewing Class of Mood Fabric’s MoodU.  I took the six week course successfully and came out of it with a refresher in basic machine sewing and a tote bag.  I have always enjoyed learning new things and this was even doubly fulfilling because I came out of it with a new bag to lug around.

Summer came and with impending travel, I missed the succeeding session and decided to wait for the next round of classes.  Last Saturday, we had the first of six new lessons in Advanced Sewing and my sewing bag is back in use.  I do the lessons with a girlfriend and we were both excited to start this weekend routine again.  It’s the build up of the anticipation to being able to do something that gives you a concrete result you can actually use later.

For the first week, we were asked to choose which piece of garment we would take on: a skirt, a wrap dress, a men’s polo shirt or a robe which is the same pattern for a coat.  I picked the latter — because “coat” beckoned to me.

I’ve always found coat shopping a bit of a challenge, and I’ve been wanting to find a nice fitting coat in a more non-traditional fabric.  Another project brewing in my head is jazzing up an existing coat with embroidery or embellishment.  A recent scan of some magazines showed me some garments in painted denim which made me go “hmmmmmmm.”  But first, the robe.

Having measured ourselves and and then trying on the sample pieces of our garment of choice, we were given the pattern of the project we chose in the approximate size.  This class, by the way, is being taught by Benjamin Mach once again, which makes for an additional perk.  I like the way he teaches and the humor he wryly injects in between instruction sessions making the lessons even more enjoyable.  He is assisted by a very eclectic mix of competent sewing teaching assistants who add not only a lot of color but a ton of sewing experience to help us navigate our way through the project.

You receive the pattern in a range of 4 sizes and in several variations of the garment you are trying to make.  The thing is to identify your size and the kind of dashed line referring to it and cut the patterns out.  I didn’t even get to finish cutting my pattern and am going to do that during my lunch break.  There are just too many pieces and I need the room.

This golden girl is getting ready to sew!   Pattern to be cut and fabric to be chosen… must do in the next 5 days before next Saturday’s class.  Can’t wait!